{"id":2157,"date":"2019-02-16T23:18:35","date_gmt":"2019-02-17T06:18:35","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.littlewheelsturning.com\/?p=2157"},"modified":"2019-02-17T22:18:26","modified_gmt":"2019-02-18T05:18:26","slug":"ireland-the-land-of-beauty-guinness","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.littlewheelsturning.com\/?p=2157","title":{"rendered":"Ireland, Land of Beauty & Guinness"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

It was a place we had always wanted to visit.\u00a0 After all, my husband, Jim, \u00a0had family roots there.\u00a0 We had backpacked Europe in the early days of our marriage\u20261980 to be exact\u2026but had chosen not to see Ireland at that time due to the \u201ctroubles\u201d and vowed someday we would return.\u00a0 This trip in September of 2018\u00a0marked our 40th wedding anniversary.<\/p>\n\n\n

We began our planning months ahead.\u00a0 We basically had 19 days, including travel time, to see the whole of Ireland and Wales. We were travelling with another couple so\u00a0finding accommodation on the fly for four seemed like a bad idea.\u00a0Therefore,\u00a0we made sure our Airbnb\u2019s were booked in advance.\u00a0 That meant pouring over maps to determine what to see in each area and trying to determine travel times on unknown roads.\u00a0 For the most part, we did pretty good but there were a couple of times that there was far more to see and longer travel times than we expected so we had\u00a0a\u00a0few\u00a0very long days on the road.\u00a0 At the end of the day, we chalked up times like that as a learning experience!<\/p>\n\n\n

First stop would be Saint John\u2019s, Newfoundland.\u00a0 We had been there on our cross Canada trip but our friends had never been.\u00a0 Flying from Calgary to Dublin required a stop in either Toronto or Saint John\u2019s so we opted for the obvious!\u00a0 We arranged a flight that got us into St. John\u2019s early in the morning and didn\u2019t leave again until late at night, giving us a full day to rent a car and tour around.\u00a0 Since Newfoundland was primarily settled by the Irish during the years of the potato famine in Ireland, it seemed a perfect spot to begin an Irish holiday.<\/p>\n\n\n

After picking up our car at the airport, we drove about 15 minutes to Portugal Cove to board a small ferry to Bell Island.\u00a0 This island,\u00a0the largest in Conception Bay, is only about 10 km long and 4 km wide with a sparse population.\u00a0\u00a0Rich in iron ore, an important mine operated on the island from 1895-1966.\u00a0 Tours and a museum are offered\u00a0for the public but\u00a0time restraints did not permit us to go.\u00a0 We toured the lighthouse and enjoyed\u00a0brunch at the Lightkeeper\u2019s Caf\u00e9 which was originally the home of the lighthouse keeper.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Leaving the mainland<\/figcaption><\/figure> \n

Driving around the island, we stopped at Lance Cove to see the only spot in Canada that took a direct hit from a torpedo fired by a German U-boat on September 5, 1942 and again on November 2, 1942.\u00a0 Ships anchored in the Cove were destroyed and seamen were killed.\u00a0 \u00a0A monument is erected there to commemorate all the people who lost their lives in these wartime events.<\/p>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

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Lance Cove<\/figcaption><\/figure> \n
<\/figcaption>\nLance Cove is also home to a number of species of ducks\u2026I can\u2019t remember the story behind them but\u00a0the ducks and their ducklings\u00a0were a joy to watch and to photograph.\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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The ducks of Lance Cove<\/figcaption><\/figure> \n
<\/figcaption>\nFrom Bell Island, we ferried back to the mainland and headed to Cape Spear, the most easterly point in Canada.\u00a0 There, we could see far out into the Atlantic and imagine the ships making the perilous journey from Ireland, filled with sick and poverty stricken passengers hoping to make a better life in this new found land.\u00a0 Imagine their relief to see the lighthouse indicating the approach to the harbour!\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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The vast Atlantic, seen from Cape Spear<\/figcaption><\/figure> \n
<\/figcaption>\nWe toured the lighthouse and had a wander around.\u00a0 Parks Canada has recently installed a couple of their famous Red Chairs there so we used them as a photo op.\n<\/figure>\n
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Thank you, Parks Canada<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Then off to Qidi Vidi, one of the oldest neighborhoods in Saint John\u2019s.\u00a0 It is small, quaint, unique and picturesque.\u00a0 And it\u00a0is home to\u00a0the most popular microbrewery in the province.\u00a0 Qidi Vidi Brewery, with its many brew varieties including our favorite Iceberg beer was a welcome mid-day thirst quencher!<\/p>\n\n\n

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Qidi Vidi harbour<\/figcaption><\/figure> \n

A quick stop at Signal Hill gave a panoramic view of Saint John\u2019s harbour, the first economic gateway between North America and Europe.\u00a0 Its narrow entrance and the strategically placed cannons has kept it a safe harbour for many\u00a0years.<\/p>\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n

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St. John\u2019s harbour seen from Signal Hill<\/figcaption><\/figure> \n

We made our way down the hill to walk along the harbour where on any given day you\u00a0might see an assortment of\u00a0freighters, yachts, cruise ships and fishing boats.<\/p>\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n

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St. John\u2019s Harbour<\/figcaption><\/figure>Finally, a visit to the downtown core and a meal on George Street.\u00a0 Our mini vacation within a vacation was drawing to an end.\u00a0\u00a0It had been a\u00a0day well spent before boarding the night time flight to Dublin.\u00a0 Hopefully sleep would not elude us on the plane as we would be arriving in the early morning hours once again.<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Farewell to St. John\u2019s<\/figcaption><\/figure>The flight from Saint John\u2019s was uneventful.\u00a0 We arrived in Dublin, excited to meet the day and all it would bring us.\u00a0 A full Irish breakfast and a good cup of coffee at the airport seemed a good way to start the day.\u00a0 We had purchased tickets on-line for the Hop-On-Hop-Off bus so we could get a glimpse of Dublin and decide where we would like to spend more time.<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Dublin, the Liffey River<\/figcaption><\/figure> \n

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<\/figcaption>\nOur accommodation was walking distance from the Guinness Storehouse and although we could not check in until 3pm, we had arranged to drop off our luggage earlier.\u00a0 The Storehouse is one of the main tourist attractions in Dublin so it was on the HOHO route.\u00a0 When the bus got there we hopped off, took our luggage to the condo and then walked back to spend a few hours learning about the Guinness family and the secrets to pouring a good pint of the frothy ale.\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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The Stores<\/figcaption><\/figure> \n
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Perfectly poured Guinness<\/figcaption><\/figure>\u00a0By the time we had finished at the Storehouse, we were ready to check in to our condo.\u00a0 Happy hour on the small patio\u00a0led to\u00a0a quick easy supper from things we had picked up at a small grocery store and by then we were ready for a relaxing evening and an early night to bed.\u00a0 We were all in need of a good night\u2019s sleep.<\/figure>\n\n\n

Morning came and we were back on the HOHO to the downtown core\u2026there was so much to see!\u00a0 First stop was the highly recommended General Post Office.\u00a0 A post office?\u00a0 Yes, the GPO houses an amazing presentation\/museum called Witness History that leaves you with a much better understanding of all the past and continuing conflict between Ireland and the UK, of which Northern Ireland is a part of.\u00a0 \u00a0Coming from Canada, we realized that we only heard about the bombings and revolts when in actuality, there were many factors involved\u2026political, economical and personal.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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Back out on the street, we were struck by the age of the buildings\u2026.all so beautiful and repurposed in\u00a0unique fashion.\u00a0 The Henry Markets\u00a0offered\u00a0all kinds of produce, flowers and other products.\u00a0 Walking along Liffey Street, we came across a statue\u00a0called\u00a0Two Women (known locally as Two Hags with Bags!) and I was struck by the everyday-ness of it.\u00a0 A testament to a nation known for their ability to take the time to sit and chat with each other.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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Henry Markets<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Two Women\u2026Two Hags with Bags<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Further along, across from the Custom House,\u00a0we came across a very moving sculpture called Famine.\u00a0 The Famine Memorial was sculpted by Rowan Gillespie and presented to the city in 1997 as a tribute to all who lost their lives in the Potato Famine in the 19th century.\u00a0 Much of Canada\u00a0 saw a huge population increase as the Irish, affected by the famine in the worst ways, emigrated to save their lives.<\/p>\n

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Famine Memorial<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Near the memorial is the Jeannie Johnson, a tall ship fitted with a Famine Museum.\u00a0 The ship is a replica of one of the Famine boats.\u00a0 We didn\u2019t get through the museum but if time had permitted, I\u2019m sure we would have.<\/p>\n

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Phoenix Park is a quiet oasis in the centre of the hustle and bustle of Dublin\u00a0 It is the largest enclosed park in any European capital city and was originally formed as a royal hunting ground in the 1600\u2019s.\u00a0 Today, it is open to everyone and is full of walking and cycling paths.<\/p>\n

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A visit to Dublin would not be complete without a stop at O\u2019Donahues Pub.\u00a0 This pub, located near St. Stephen\u2019s Green, dates back to the 1700\u2019s.\u00a0 In more recent times, it has been a hub for music lovers\u2026the walls are lined with photos of some of Ireland\u2019s finest musicians who have performed here over the years.\u00a0 We stopped for a pint mid-day so there was no band playing at the time.<\/p>\n

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St. Stephen\u2019s Green was our next stop.\u00a0\u00a0A beautiful Victorian park with lovely walking paths and picnic areas.\u00a0A huge lake in the centre is home to hundreds of ducks, swans and of course\u2026pigeons!<\/p>\n

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Home of the park\u2019s Groundskeeper<\/dd>\n\n\n\n \n \n \n <\/dl>\n\n

On to our next stop\u2026 Christ Church Cathedral.\u00a0 Founded c1028, this cathedral\u00a0is the spiritual heart of the city, and one of the top visitor attractions in Dublin.\u00a0 The cathedral\u2019s interior is\u00a0beautiful, and the medieval crypt is fascinating!\u00a0<\/p>\n

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Christ Church Cathedral<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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It had been a full day of walking, exploring, and enjoying Dublin.\u00a0 It\u2019s a lovely city with so much to see and do.\u00a0 We barely did it justice in the two days we had there.\u00a0 But we came to see a whole country, not just a city.\u00a0 We would head back to the airport the next morning to pick up our rental car and head north to Belfast.<\/p>\n

Driving in Ireland is another adventure in itself!\u00a0 Thankfully, we rented a little BMW with automatic transmission, a luxury we paid extra for, since most cars in Ireland have manual transmissions.\u00a0 Driving on the opposite side of the extremely narrow roads seemed like enough of a challenge without having to shift gears as well.\u00a0 We also made sure our car was equipped with Navigation so we wouldn\u2019t have to rely solely on our maps.<\/p>\n

From the airport, we were immediately on the major freeway (M1)\u00a0heading north.\u00a0 Travelling speed is 120km\/h which seemed excessive in an unfamiliar car.\u00a0 We both found ourselves tense that first day.\u00a0 I had sore shoulders from constantly straining my body to impulsively avoid objects which seemed far too close to the left side of the car!\u00a0 In reality, Jim was travelling in the centre of the lane but that\u2019s not how it seemed in the passenger seat!\u00a0<\/p>\n

The drive from Dublin to Belfast is only about 165 km by freeway but we chose to take a more scenic route.\u00a0 We left the freeway at Newry and headed east passing through Warrenpoint, Kilkeel and Newcastle\u00a0 before arriving at Downpatrick where we stopped to see St. Patrick\u2019s grave at Down Cathedral.\u00a0 St. Patrick, the foremost patron saint of Ireland, was a fifth century missionary who died on March 17.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n

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Down Cathedral<\/figcaption><\/figure>
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St. Patrick\u2019s Grave<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n

From Downpatrick, we traveled to Stranford, took a short ferry and then drove the inner coastal road to Belfast.\u00a0 The roads were narrow and scenic.<\/p>\n

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By evening we had arrived in Belfast.\u00a0 We would spend two nights in an apartment close to the downtown core.\u00a0 We had to be aware of parking restrictions and make sure we moved our car occasionally since there were time limits to parking spaces.\u00a0 Our friends did in fact get a parking ticket\u2026another vacation expense!<\/p>\n

On foot, we explored the City Centre.\u00a0 At the City Hall we came across\u00a0a very moving memorial to the many missing soldiers of WWI.\u00a0 The Shrouds of the Somme\u00a0is Belfast\u2019s part of a greater exhibition throughout the Commonwealth.\u00a0 It includes 3775 shrouded figures, all laid out shoulder to shoulder, each representing a serviceman from the Ulster and Irish regiments who died at the Battle of\u00a0the Somme\u00a0and have no known grave.<\/p>\n

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City Hall<\/figcaption><\/figure>
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Shrouds of the Somme<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n

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After exploring the downtown core, we crossed the bridge to the Quay and headed to the famous state-of-the-art Titanic Experience, which tells the story of the RMS Titanic from construction\u00a0and launch to her tragic maiden voyage.\u00a0 We heard varying reviews on this but we loved it.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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At the Quay, we discovered a little non-profit coffee shop called The Dock that operated on\u00a0the honesty system.\u00a0 After placing your order for coffee, tea, baking, etc. the customer is asked to pay whatever they feel is fair.\u00a0 It is run by volunteers and has a comfy, unpretentious atmosphere that lends itself to great conversation or quiet solitude.\u00a0 The home baking is great.\u00a0 I would definitely recommend a stop there.<\/p>\n

On our way back to the city centre, we stopped at Victoria Square shopping centre, not to shop but to ride the elevator to the Dome.\u00a0 Panoramic views of the city can be seen from all sides and major landmarks are pointed out by signage.<\/p>\n

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Leaving the mall, we were thirsting for a bit of Irish entertainment.\u00a0 When the Wee Toaster Tour buggy passed us, we realized it was time to find a good Irish Pub.\u00a0 Pug Uglys turned out to be a great spot to listen to some good traditional Irish music and have a cold one at the same time.<\/p>\n

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We were on the road early the next day.\u00a0Our route was Belfast to Letterkenny in the northwest but we\u00a0planned to explore the northern shore en route.\u00a0 It was a clear sunny day and the views of the green fields and blue ocean were breathtaking.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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Our first stop was Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge near Ballintoy.\u00a0 Suspended almost 30 metres above sea level, the rope bridge was first erected by salmon fisherman about 350 years ago.\u00a0 Jim and Dennis crossed the bridge to the small island at the northeast corner of Ireland to view the lone fisherman\u2019s cottage and feel the force of the wind off the ocean.\u00a0 In the distance, we could see the Mull of Kintyre and the faint\u00a0coastline of Scotland.<\/p>\n

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A short drive from\u00a0Ballintoy,\u00a0we came to\u00a0Bushmills where we parked the car and hopped on a free shuttle bus to the Giant\u2019s Causeway.\u00a0 This World Heritage Site is a very popular tourist area but oh, so worth the stop.\u00a0 The Giant\u2019s Causeway is a unique land formation along the north shore.\u00a0 A walking tour of the area gives both the scientific and mythical stories behind the more than 40,000 interlocking basalt columns that form the shoreline.\u00a0 Were they a result of an ancient volcanic eruption?\u00a0 Or were they the result of the war between two giants named Finn McCool and Benadonner?\u00a0 It was so entertaining and interesting.<\/p>\n

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The Giant\u2019s Causeway<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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We continued our journey west, stopping once more.\u00a0 Dunluce Castle, built between the 15th and 17th century, stands dramatically on the headlands, at one time controlling the land and sea routes of the area.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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We stayed the night at a beautiful\u00a0 Airbnb just outside Letterkenny.\u00a0 We got in late, had a quick supper and a visit from the owner.\u00a0 He gave us advise on places to see in the area and on our drive toward Headford the next day.\u00a0 It wasn\u2019t long before we were off to dreamland in the comfy beds.\u00a0<\/p>\n

After a\u00a0good breakfast, we were on our way through the Glenveagh National Park to view the mountains, lakes, and woods and walk around the exquisite gardens of the Glenveagh Castle.\u00a0 The park is also home to a large herd of red deer.<\/p>\n

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Lough Veagh<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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The gardens at Glenveagh Castle<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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From the park, we headed south toward Donegal.\u00a0 Our afternoon was\u00a0the highlight of the day as we hiked the cliffs of Slieve League.\u00a0 Slieve League is a mountain range that falls off steeply into the Atlantic Ocean, resulting in some of the highest and most beautiful sea-cliffs in Europe.\u00a0 The Cliffs of Moher get a lot of tourist attention but these cliffs are actually about two to three times higher.\u00a0 The hike to Bunglass Point\u00a0is sensational; easy uphill all the way with stunning views of ocean and cliffs.\u00a0 There is an option to drive to the viewing area to save time but we were so glad we\u00a0chose to get out and hike.\u00a0 Besides, an ice cream truck at the top made it even more worthwhile!<\/p>\n

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Hiking partners<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Slieve League Cliffs from Bunglass Point<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

With another four hours of driving ahead of us, we had to forego any more stops for the day.\u00a0 We arrived very late to our accommodation in Headford, near Galway.\u00a0 We felt bad keeping the owner up so late\u2026this is one day that took much, much longer than we had anticipated.<\/p>\n

Our next day took us first to Cong, an exceptionally beautiful little town where, in the 7th century, the monastery of Cong was built.\u00a0 In the 12th century it was destroyed, rebuilt, and then destroyed again in the 13th century.\u00a0 Very little of the Abbey remains but there are fragments of the cloister where the monks worked and prayed as well as the monks fishing house.\u00a0 The last high king of Ireland, Rory O\u2019Connor, lived out his last years in the old Abbey.\u00a0 Today, the land and forest is a recreation area combining scenic walks, historic buildings and diverse forests.\u00a0 The movie \u201cThe Quiet Man\u201d\u00a0 was filmed here.<\/p>\n

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The beautiful town of Cong<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Cong Abbey<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Monk\u2019s Fishing House<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Within walking distance (we discovered late) is Ashford castle.\u00a0\u00a0Built in the\u00a013th century, this castle has recently been converted to a lavish 5-star hotel.\u00a0 It sits on Lough Corrib and the grounds are impeccable.\u00a0 Unless you are a paying guest you will not be allowed entrance into the building but the gardens are open to all.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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Ashford Castle Hotel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

From Cong, we travelled south a couple of hours to Adare where we stopped for a leg stretch.\u00a0 Another very pretty town, Adare is known for it\u2019s thatched cottages that were built in the 1820\u2019s and were ravished by fire in 2015.\u00a0 These cottages are now\u00a0part of an historic restoration project.\u00a0 All the buildings in the downtown area are adorned with flowers spilling over their pots\u2026it\u2019s so pretty.\u00a0\u00a0 Of course, the kegs spilling out of the front of the pubs looked pretty good to the guys!<\/p>\n

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Main Street, Adare<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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An hour later, we were visiting Carrigafoyle Castle,\u00a0less than a kilometre from\u00a0our Bed and Breakfast for the night.\u00a0 This castle, five stories high, stands\u00a0as a stronghold on the estuary of the Shannon River.\u00a0 It has a winding stone staircase to the top where we could see for miles and miles.\u00a0 As luck would have it, Helen, an expert on the castle, was there and gave us the history of this 15th century castle.\u00a0 In 1580, it came under fire by land and sea and all 69 occupants were massacred.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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After checking in to our Bed and Breakfast on Carrig Island, we ventured into town to one of the oldest pubs I\u2019ve ever been in.\u00a0 Colleen has been the bartender there for over\u00a040 years and I\u2019m sure some of the locals have been in there nightly as long or longer.\u00a0 Colleen gave Jim a crack at pouring a Guinness and an old local fellow sang a song for us.\u00a0 Good times were had by all!<\/p>\n

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We started our next day with a full Irish breakfast and then set out heading south to Tralee where we would turn west and drive the Dingle Peninsula Loop.\u00a0 The Dingle Peninsula is Europe\u2019s most westerly point and has a diverse landscape from rugged mountains to steep cliffs to beautiful beaches.\u00a0 Luckily, driving has become much more comfortable for Jim since\u00a0the road is narrow and is typically well traveled by tourists and tour buses.\u00a0 Even though we had a misty rain falling\u00a0as we drove, the views were spectacular.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_3742\"IMG_3755\"\"IMG_3758.jpg\"\"IMG_3771\"<\/p>\n

While travelling this area, we stopped to tour a typical Famine House.\u00a0 The Great Potato Famine was a period in Ireland between 1845 and 1849 of mass starvation, disease, and emigration, with the most severely affected areas in the west and south of Ireland.\u00a0 The museum, if it could be called that, was fairly run down but nonetheless very thought provoking.\u00a0 <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

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Upon completing the Dingle Loop, we again headed south along the Ring of Kerry to the southwest corner of the country.\u00a0 We were booked into a B & B in Balinskelligs that was at one time a school house.\u00a0 We would stay for two nights in cozy little well appointed rooms and a large common dining area.<\/p>\n

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The next day we\u00a0poked \u00a0around the nearby town of \u00a0Cahersiveen and then took the ferry to Valencia Island.\u00a0 Valencia was the eastern terminus of the first commercially viable trans Atlantic cable, connecting in Heart\u2019s Content, Newfoundland.\u00a0 Operation of the cable ceased years ago.\u00a0 We toured the lighthouse and drove to the top of the mountain to see a panoramic view of the strait and the islands.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0Lunch at Knightstown Coffee Shop was excellent.\u00a0 Then on to Valencia Candles\u00a0 where we could see the candles being made\u00a0and the Chocolate Factory where we each purchased a good portion of Skellig Chocolate.\u00a0 Yumm!<\/p>\n

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An ancient standing stone at Cromwell Point<\/figcaption><\/figure>
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The light house at Cromwell Point<\/figcaption><\/figure>
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the view from the top of Geokaun Mountain<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n

The Skellig area is known for its very unusual landscape.\u00a0 Looking west across the Atlantic, two islands can be seen rising like pyramids.\u00a0 The largest one is called Skellig Michael and the other is Little Skellig.\u00a0 An ancient Christian\u00a0monastery is built on Skellig Michael\u00a0dating back to the 6th century.\u00a0 Monks lived on the island in beehive huts for hundreds of years.\u00a0 Eco tours are offered from the Skellig Visitor Centre allowing both boat tours up to the islands and landing tours to explore the island.\u00a0 These are all day affairs and\u00a0 weather \u00a0can be a daily factor.\u00a0 There are absolutely no facilities on the island and great care is taken to keep the island in its natural state.\u00a0 Anything you pack in must also be packed out.\u00a0 As much as I would have loved to do the tour, I\u2019m not sure I could last all day with no facilities!\u00a0 The video shown at the Visitor Centre about the island is phenomenal and I felt as though I had been on the tour.\u00a0 We settled for a walk on the craggy beaches and photos of the distant islands.<\/p>\n

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Morning came and we were heading east towards Cobh with some lovely stops along the way.\u00a0 The day was warm and sunny and the coastal views kept our cameras clicking.\u00a0 A stop at Darrymane Beach was soothing to the soul.<\/p>\n

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